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Hey there! I think your reply might have accidentally landed in the wrong thread — you shared some great tips about introducing new foods and sleep hygiene (totally true about the 10-12 hours!), but ToocanStan was specifically asking about NutriBerries and whether they count as a staple diet or treats.

To answer the original question: NutriBerries are best treated as "fortified treats" rather than a complete daily diet. Even though Lafeber markets them as nutritionally complete, they’re essentially hulled seeds and pellets held together with sugar and binding agents — which explains why your Senegal goes absolutely bonkers for them! That excitement is often a sugar/fat response, similar to how kids react to candy.

For a Senegal parrot, most avian vets (including the team at Britannia Animal Hospital in Mississauga, which is our go-to) recommend using NutriBerries as roughly 10-20% of the diet — maybe 3-5 berries as a foraging reward or breakfast topping, with the bulk being high-quality pellets (like Harrison's, Roudybush, or TOP's) and plenty of fresh chop. If your bird is acting "unhealthily" obsessed, that’s usually a sign they’re getting too many or eating them too predictably.

Have you tried hiding them in foraging toys to slow down the excitement? Or mixing them into chop so they’re less of a "event"?

What does everyone else think — do you use NutriBerries as a staple, or strictly as the "bird equivalent of trail mix"? Would love to hear how you portion them out!

Hey there! Quick clarification first—sounds like you might have a lineolated parakeet (linnie) rather than a parrotlet? Both are small parrots, but linnies are actually known for being relatively quiet, so this 6 AM opera suggests something specific is triggering that dawn chorus behaviour.

Early morning screaming is usually "flock calling"—your bird's checking if you're still there as the sun comes up. In a

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Oh, the bottle cap obsession is so real with conures! We've looked after quite a few birds at Bird Sitting Toronto, and I swear half of them would trade a fancy foraging toy for a plastic bottle cap or the ring from a milk jug any day. There's just something about that light, clacky sound and the perfect "beak size" that drives them wild.

Some of the weirdest "toys" we've seen claimed as treasure include measuring spoons (especially on a ring so they jingle), those wooden coffee stirrers from Starbucks, and—my personal

Welcome to the flock! I notice there's a little mix-up between your thread title (blue and gold macaw) and your post (umbrella cockatoo)—just want to make sure we're chatting about the right bird! Either way, you're looking at a multi-decade commitment, which is wonderful that you're planning ahead.

Umbrella cockatoos typically live 40 to 60 years in captivity (sometimes 70+ with excellent care), while blue and gold macaws usually range from 30 to 50 years. For longevity, prioritize annual checkups with a certified avian vet here in Toronto, a diet built around quality pellets and fresh chop rather than seed-heavy mixes, and plenty of foraging opportunities to keep their minds sharp. Social interaction is crucial too—especially for cockatoos, who are velcro birds that need significant daily engagement to prevent stress.

Since you're thinking long-term, it's smart to plan for future care needs, whether that's arranging trusted sitting services for vacations or even estate planning (these birds often outlive us!). Bird Sitting Toronto works with many large parrot owners across the city to provide specialized care when life gets busy.

Which species did you actually bring home? We'd love to hear about your new companion's personality and any settling-in questions you might have!

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First, just a quick clarification—sounds like you have a Quaker parrot (also called a monk parakeet), not a sun conure! But to answer your question: yes, this is actually very typical Quaker behavior. Quakers are famously neophobic, meaning they often view anything new—toys, perches, furniture, even your new hat—as potential threats until proven otherwise. It’s part of their cautious, territorial nature, and while it can be frustrating, it doesn’t mean your bird is broken or unusually anxious.

The key with Quakers is gradual introduction. Instead of putting a new toy directly in the cage, try leaving it across the room for a few days, then slowly moving it closer while offering treats nearby. Let them investigate on their own terms—curiosity usually wins over fear if there’s no pressure. Wearing that new hat? Maybe hang it near the cage first, then wear it for short periods while doing calm, positive activities like reading or offering millet.

This is also why many Quaker owners find that maintaining consistent routines (and familiar setups when they travel) really helps their birds feel secure. If